This Two Brothers Exhaust just never had a chance against the Dalton Highway
This Two Brothers Exhaust just never had a chance against the Dalton Highway

Day 16

First off, I’m going to start off by saying “F The Weather”.

Hit rain just outside of Tok. Not bad, just enough to switch from summer gloves to my Warm and Safe for the added comfort and the little squeegee.

Then outside of Tok, it cleared up.

Then, about 10 miles before the border, WAM, worst rain I have ever been in.

Almost couldn’t see, water was running down the road like a river, and the wind was blowing so hard it was blowing the water UP HILL!

Then, to top it all off, there was some serious lightning going on.

Ok! That’s off my mind!

Slept in, no need to wake up, need to hit up Shawn and Dan at Adventure Cycle Works at 10.

Get up, get ready, packed, and head off.

Finally get my exhaust, put it on, and while taking off the old one, I got to finally see the abuse it took from the Dalton and other various roads.

There is nothing left. Chunks missing out of it, all the screws missing. If it wasn’t for the bracket, it would have fallen off. I’m guessing any much more of the Dalton, and it would have fallen off, as a crack almost encircles the whole thing.

I say my goodbyes to Geoff, he continues to makes fun of my over packing
I say my goodbyes to Geoff, he continues to makes fun of my over packing

With new exhaust on, I say my goodbyes to Geoff.

It really was a pleasure to ride with him the last week and a half, and I hope to meet up with him in his travels again, before he sets off home in 10 months.

I make my way out, and eventually hit the Alaska Highway, heading South.

I cruise at a comfortable speed, eventually getting to Delta Junction for some gas.

While at Delta, I figured I better lube my chain, since the night before we washed our bikes off, to get the calcium chloride off.

After lubing the chain, I checked my oil. It was a bit low, so I decided to fill it up some.

I just finished topping it off, put the cap back on, pulled the bike up to check the level one last time, and the bike came up… And continued to come over.

Jumping back, I let the bike fall, as I would rather it fall on the ground, than on me.

I quickly jumped up, and started to pull it up.

2 guys came running over asking if I needed help, but I already had a firm grip, and the bike was heading on its way up, and I told them I had it.

After dusting myself off, and my pride, I jumped on, and rode away towards Tok, my next stop.

Just outside of Tok, I hit some rain, so put on my warm and safe gloves.
In Tok, I fueled up, took a quick break to eat a couple pieces of jerky, and a cliff bar, and set off for the border.

That’s when I ran into hell. The storm was amazing though just in shear size. I rode in it for over 30 miles between the time I hit it, to the time I passed the Canadian Customs.

When I pulled up at customs, the rain was still coming down hard. I pulled my helmet off, handed over my passport, the lady asked a couple questions “Where you heading to, how long you plan on staying in Canada, yade yade”.

I answered I was heading home from a trip to Prudhoe Bay, and that I only planned on being in Canada for 5 to 7 days on my way home.

She looked at me, and told me to pull off into the covered area.

Damn, I’m going to be searched.

Not that I have anything illegal or whatnot on me. I pull over into the covered area, and start unlocking my boxes.

She walks out, hands me my passport, looks at me, and says “It looked like you needed a break from the weather. Your good to go, but the rain should let up soon”.

It was nice of her to have me pull over into the inspection bay. I waited about 15 minutes until the rain let up some, and then took off to Beaver Creek for fuel.

I fueled up in Beaver Creek, where a Harley Rider came over to ask if I had any Alcohol on me. Odd question, and I know he saw the bewilderment on my face, cause he then said “Oh, I mean for my gas tank, I think I got water in my fuel, and I cannot keep my bike running”. I responded I didn’t have any, and he told me not the fuel up at the gas station at the other end of town.

I left, heading towards Whitehorse.

Rear brakes work best when the lines are one piece
Rear brakes work best when the lines are one piece

It was along this stretch of road, that I finally found out what Gus was talking about when he was telling me about the “Terrible Frost Heaves”.

This stretch of road is relentless.

Frost heave after frost heave, dips, cracks, holes, you name it.

I finally thought I was out of it, sped back up, came over a rise, and BAM. Hit a heave sharply at speed going downhill.

The KLR lifted from the ground, and for a moment, that pig flew. But without wings, it came down hard.

I shook it off, and decided to pull off the side of the road to make sure everything was ok.

As I pulled off into the gravel, I applied a little rear brake.


The pedal went all the way down without any resistance.

I down shifted down, lightly pulled on the front brake and came to a stop, and dismounted.

There, I saw my rear brake line busted at the fitting closest to the caliper.

My stomach sank, giving me that uneasy feeling.

I am more than confident that I can handle a bike without a rear brake, I’d just rather have one in case of an emergency stop than anything.

I looked the rest of the bike over, didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary, and pushed on, taking my time.

One thing I hate more than rain, is wind. I hate riding in the wind. I hate how it pushes you around, I hate how it slows you down, forcing you to consume more fuel.

I had lots of wind.

I finally stopped at Destruction Bay and fueled up.

While there, I asked the store clerk about the wind, and he said that it should die out around Haines Junction, another 66 miles down the road.

Noticing they had a cafe, I decided to grab a bite to eat. I was hungry, it was late, and I really needed the rest, as the other thing about wind, it fatigues you rather quickly.

Once finished with my dinner of Fish and Chip’s, I headed out. I knew I had enough fuel to make it to Whitehorse, another 166 miles.

The wind continued, but the sun was out, keeping me warm most the way.

Finally, after over 12 hours of riding since I headed out after putting on my exhaust, I finally made it into Whitehorse at around 11:15pm.

Tired, I opted against a campsite, and rode into town to the Stop Inn Family Hotel, the same hotel I stayed a week and a half prior, where I parted ways with Doug, and began my Journey with Geoff.

I was lucky, they had a room left, and with that, I unloaded my bike, sat down, and tried to unwind the day’s events writing this.

I’m going to post some pictures of my exhaust on facebook, and then hit the shower before heading to bed.

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Arctic Expedition: Day 17

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